During the Middle Ages, the area became deserted, was overgrown with grass, and only vineyards dotted its landscape. Out of all the remains of those times, scattered around in the modern landscape, only three churches were preserved, still emanating an aura of contemplation – as if time had stopped. This sensation is further strengthened by the fact, that they remain forgotten and undiscovered by tourists, while their empty interiors are only filled with few of the faithful searching for rest and silence within. The first of these is the Church of San Saba. We can reach this complex from the viale Aventino via a street of the same name (via di San Saba). The church itself will appear to us in a rather unusual way. It is accessed by very steep stairs and a gate. When we climb them, we will find ourselves on a courtyard with a simple façade, bearing the signs of numerous modernizations. It is here that during ancient times, St. Gregory the Great lived with his mother Silvia. In the VII century the complex was inhabited by Greek monks from Palestine, while in the Middle Ages the interior was adorned with Cosmati-style decorations and magnificent, still preserved frescoes. Leaving this “atmospheric” church, we can depart through the second exit and thus find ourselves on the Piazza Bernini, to once again look upon the body of this charming structure, this time from a different perspective. After a seven-minute walk in the direction of the Baths of Caracalla (via di Santa Balbina) we will reach another medieval structure, whose roots are also set in antiquity – the picturesque Church of Santa Balbina. If we are lucky it will be open (I succeeded only upon the third time), and then we should definitely enter. This was the location of one of the oldest Roman titulae, while the church itself, built in the VI century, was dedicated to a Roman virgin and martyr, with the graceful name of Balbina. At the end of the 1920’s it was completely renovated – with the aim of restoring its antique and medieval character. This did not seem to succeed in full. Presently the church seems slightly damaged, however the remains of medieval frescoes, the imposing tomb from the beginning of the XIV century, which was in the past located in the old Constantine Basilica of San Pietro in Vaticano, as well as the remains of the Cosmati decorations, can be admired in complete solitude.

A view of the imposing size baths from the beginning of the III century and funded by the emperor of a rather meager reputation, stretches from the terrace of the church. In ancient Rome, Caracalla was made famous as the founder of a spectacular “amusement park”, as we would have said today, along with sports halls, swimming pools, libraries, parks, and gardens, the likes of which Rome had never before seen. In summer time, these ruins serve as the scenography for operas which are put on here.

Immediately next to the enterance to the Baths of Caracalla, at the foot of the hill, at the busy viale delle Terme di Caracalla, there is a small Church of Santi Nereo e Achilleo. If it is open, it definitely must be seen. Its roots reach all the way back to ancient times – one of the Roman titulae was supposed to have been located here, while the original building, of which fragments of beautiful mosaics and an imposing bishop’s throne  flanked by two marble lions remain, was created in the IX century.